Putting together a bodice – more on darts

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I am still working on the dress mentioned before; as I said, it takes a lot of concentration, so it’s definitely a weekend project.

After doing some practice darts on random scraps of fabric as well as remnants of the actual project fabric, I took the plunge and started sewing the real darts. Eek! I have a nice little basic Singer, and it’s served me well on the basic projects I’ve done so far.

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When it came to it, though, everything went a little bit wrong. I have no idea what was happening, but the bottom bobbin kept coming undone; several times I had to remove the bobbin holder completely and remove thread that had somehow gotten caught. If anyone knows what might have caught this, I’d be very grateful to hear it! My best guess is that it was to do with the thread tension, but that is pure assumption.

I usually don’t have much of a temper, but I hate it when my plans don’t go according to plan, especially if it’s something I’m doing myself. Luckily I was alone while doing this, so no one heard me shout “Argh!” or throw bits of fabric. *Ahem* But I did carry on, and eventually I did get all 6 darts sewn. Some are definitely better than others, but overall I’m quite pleased given how little experience I have.

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Much harder than actually sewing the darts is figuring out if the bodice actually fits. I’ve been pinning and trying it on, but it’s still hard to judge as I’m moving my arms to hold it closed in the back (or once, at the side). Overall there still seems to be a bit too much fabric; there is a bit of bubbling on the right hand side, just above the bust, and there is quite a lot of fabric overlap in the back. After randomly reading a snippet of Gertie’s  book in Waterstone’s, I think I’ve discovered that I may be swaybacked. I’m not absolutely certain yet, but I plan to do some reading around the subject during the week.

At any rate, I’ve gone ahead and pressed the darts. The instructions say to do darts before, but I am tempted to go ahead and sew up at least the shoulder seams, then go back and adjust the darts one I’m sure what’s causing the bubbling. Is that a bad idea? No doubt someone with more experience could tell me which bits are causing the problems, but I really don’t know how to tell without a final bodice.

More news on this next week! I’m hoping to have it finished by Thanksgiving, but it’s more important to me that it’s done well, so I won’t be rushing it.

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